Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

BLOEMEN VAN HET HEELAL. De Kleurijke Wereld van de Textiel op Java. (FLOWERS OF THE UNIVERSE. The Colorful World of Textiles in Java).

Author: Alit Veldhuisen – Djajasoebrata, 1984, 160pgs. (Dutch). Hardcover
Publisher: Sijthof, Amsterdam

The author’s upbringing in a multicultural household—with a Dutch administrator father and a Sundanese mother—imbued her perspective with a unique hybridity of colonial and indigenous worldviews. The volumes she produced delineate the diverse techniques of batik decoration, situating them within broader cultural encounters between the Dutch and the Javanese. These accounts include an exploration of the mythological symbolism of weaving, chromatic classifications ranging from uncolored to light and dark, and indicates an early practice of batiks incorporating glutinous rice. Her narrative then transitions to Cirebon, a historic port city on the north coast of Central Java, where she examines the Chinese diaspora in Java and its aesthetic contributions. She observes that batiks from this milieu were richly ornamented with floral motifs and characterized by polychromatic vibrancy. Within Javanese cosmology, cardinal wind directions functioned as a symbolic compass, embedding textiles within a broader epistemological framework. The discussion extends to the Vorstenlanden—the autonomous indigenous monarchies of Yogya and Solo during the Dutch East Indies—where she catalogues both canonical and proscribed batik patterns. Alit further articulates the Javanese worldview, emphasizing the sacrality of mountains and forests, the ritualized life cycles of human life, and the Kain Kembangan, the tie and dye textiles also called “jumputan” emblematic of Central Java. Returning to her paternal lineage, she reflects on the lives of Dutch administrators’ wives in the colony, before concluding with the metaphor of “new sprouts on an old tree,” a poetic evocation of innovation within enduring tradition. This edition was later adjusted, rewritten in English and published in 2018, under the title “Flowers from Universe” (see this Library).

BRUNEI-MALAY WEDDING

Author: Anyati Abdullah Orchullo, 2014. 312 pg. (English)
Publisher: Bruneian Press Sdn. Bhd, Bandar Seri Begawan

The book features a variety of Bruneian wedding outfits designed by Anyati, celebrating her 20 years as a fashion designer. For traditional weddings, she utilizes songkets that are handwoven in Brunei. The book offers readers the enjoyment of viewing a wide variety of beautiful textiles.

BUDAYA DAN KARYA SENI PERANAKAN TIONGHOA INDONESIA (CULTURE AND CRAFTS OF INDO-CHINESE/PERANAKAN) - Catalog

Author: Unknown, Komunitas Lintas-Budaya Indonesia 2012, 44pg. (Indonesian & English). Softcover
Publisher: Gramedia, Jakarta

This concise catalog was produced to accompany the exhibition Culture and Crafts of the Indo-Chinese/Peranakan, held at Bentara Budaya in Jakarta. The exhibition showcased a diverse array of Peranakan material culture, including intricately crafted ceramics, finely carved furniture, elaborately woven textiles, traditional hats, elegant kebaya tops, and a selection of quotidian household objects.

BUDAYA JAWA – ENSIKLOPEDI ADAT-ISTIADAT (JAVANESE CULTURE – ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS)

Author: Dr, Purwadi, 2007. 642pgs. (Indonesian). Softcover
Publisher: Panji Pustaka, Yogyakarta

Adat istiadat, or customs and traditions, refers to the unwritten rules, rituals, traditional laws, and cultural practices transmitted across generations within a particular society or community. Among the Javanese people, these customs and traditions are practiced not merely as cultural expressions but as pathways toward achieving spiritual harmony and a peaceful life. Furthermore, Javanese society does not only adhere to traditional norms to preserve social solidarity; it also cultivates collective work ethics such as gotong royong—the spirit of mutual cooperation and communal assistance. These traditions are deeply intertwined with the natural environment, reflecting a worldview in which cultural practices and ecological balance are inseparable. This book provides a comprehensive explanation of how such traditions should be observed and maintained. It is an essential resource for anyone seeking to understand the cultural identity and philosophical foundations of the Javanese people.

BUDAYA NUSANTARA. Kajian Konsep Mandala dan Konsep Triloka terhadap Pohon Hayat pada Batik Klasik. (CULTURE OF NUSANTARA. Interpreting the Tree of Life through the Mandala and Tri-loka Concepts)

Author: Dharsono (Sony Kartika), 2007. 200pgs. (Indonesian). Softcover
Publisher: Rekayasa Sains, Bandung

Budaya Nusantara: Kajian Konsep Mandala dan Triloka/Buana terhadap Pohon Hayat pada Batik Klasik constitutes a scholarly investigation into traditional Indonesian art, philosophy, and cosmology. The study probes the profound spiritual and architectural meanings embedded within classical batik patterns, with particular emphasis on the Tree of Life (pohon hayat), also known as kayon or gunungan. This motif is analyzed through two ancient spatial frameworks: the Mandala — sacred geometric diagrams representing the cosmos — and the Tri-loka Buana — the tripartite division of existence in the Nusantara worldview. The book demonstrates that the Tree of Life is far more than a decorative element in classical batik (including coastal and royal Javanese traditions). It emerges as a profound cosmological symbol articulating the interconnection between humanity, nature, and the divine. Dharsono elucidates how traditional Javanese and Nusantara designs employ the mandala layout — a centralized cosmic map — to structure spatial orientation and spiritual focus within textile art. He further explicates the vertical cosmology of the Tri-loka: the upper divine realm, the middle human realm, and the lower underworld. Classical batik motifs are shown to mirror this tripartite universe, thereby embodying the metaphysical beliefs of ancient Indonesian societies. By bridging visual art with philosophy, the text offers readers a theological and sociological lens through which to interpret batik, moving beyond mere aesthetics. It integrates semiotic analysis, anthropological context, and fine art methodology, rendering the work a valuable resource for cultural researchers. The density of philosophical terminology and the rigor of its academic structure may prove challenging for casual readers seeking only a basic introduction to textile history. Nevertheless, Dharsono Sony Kartika’s contribution stands as an essential text for those interested in Javanese philosophy, textile symbolism, and the sacred geometry of Indonesian culture. Ultimately, the book reframes classical batik as more than cloth: it becomes a visual cartography of the universe, a cosmological map woven into textile form.

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