Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

KAIN PAPINTAN. Sungai Tabukan Alabio, Kalimantan Selatan (The Papintan Cloth of the Tabukan-Alabio River, in South Kalimantan)

Author: Suwati Kartiwa, 1996, 34pg (Indonesian & English). Booklet
Publisher: Museum Nasional, Jakarta

This booklet introduces the kain papintan, a distinctive woven textile produced by communities residing along the Tabukan Alabio River in South Kalimantan. Characterized by its thin stripes and loosely woven structure, the cloth is regarded as sacred and is traditionally employed in healing rituals. Ethnographic accounts identify approximately nineteen distinct varieties of papintan, each classified according to its design motifs and chromatic combinations. The more delicate, loosely woven forms of papintan are commonly worn as undergarments, while textiles inscribed with verses from the Holy Qur’an are often draped on young children as a protective measure against malevolent spirits.

KAIN SONGKET LABUAN BAJO. (SONGKET TEXTILES OF LABUAN BAJO).

Author: Threes Emir & Samuel Wattimena, 2017. 128pgs. (Indonesian). Hardcover. Pesona Kain Indonesia Series
Publisher: Gramedia Pustaka Utama, Jakarta.

Songket textiles are produced throughout Indonesia, but the weavings from Labuan Bajo, in western Flores Island, receive less attention. This region is noted for its stunning songkets, which exemplify supplementary weft weaving. The book outlines the simple weaving techniques passed down from the Minangkabau ancestors and recounts the history of Todo Village, a former kingdom where traditional motifs have been preserved for generations. Its main objective is to promote these textiles as fashionable products, highlighting that fashion and culinary offerings are vital to the tourism industry.

KAIN TENUN DONGGALA. (DONGGALA SILK WEAVINGS)

Author: Suwati Kartiwa & Judi Achjadi (Summary in English). 1983, 50pg. (Indonesian & English). Booklet
Publisher: Donggala Press, Donggala, Central Sulawesi

The textiles produced in Donggala exemplify the tradition of weft-ikat weaving, a technique that traces its lineage to the post-Hindu period of Indonesian cultural history. Comparable centers of weft-ikat production include Palembang, Pasemah, Bangka, and Riau Lingga along the eastern coast of Sumatra, as well as Gresik in Java, Bali, West Lombok, and the northern and central regions of Sulawesi. Donggala weavings are traditionally executed on backstrap looms, employing either natural or synthetic silk threads, and frequently incorporating synthetic dyes to achieve their distinctive chromatic effects. The authors provide a detailed exposition of the weaving process, delineate the principal varieties of Donggala silk sarongs, and situate Donggala silks within the broader framework of traditional costume, thereby underscoring their cultural and ceremonial significance.

KAIN TENUN MINANGKABAU. Narasi Masyarakatnya (Minangkabau Weavings. Narrations of its People)

Author: Nian S. Djoemena. 2015. 195 pg. (Indonesian)
Publisher: Indonesia Kebanggaanku, Jakarta

The book explores the Minangkabau people and their exquisite songket weavings, narrated by Nian S. Djoemena, the first Indonesian female textile scientist to graduate from the Higher Textile School in Enschede, the Netherlands. Nian is the daughter of Rahman Tamin, a prominent textile tycoon associated with Ratatex, one of the largest textile factories in the early 1960s. In addition to her scientific achievements, Nian is also a writer and a collector of traditional Indonesian textiles.

KAIN TENUN TRADISIONAL “KOFO” DI SANGIHE (Kofo, the Traditional Weavings of Sangihe)

Author: Steven Sumolang, 2011. 100pg. (Indonesian)
Publisher: Indonesian Ministry of Tourism and Culture

Kofo refers to banana fibers, or abaka (Musa textilis), which are used to weave clothing on the island of Sangihe, located north of Sulawesi. This book is part of a program aimed at reviving indigenous textiles of Southeast Asia. It focuses on ceremonial textiles that are at risk of extinction. The book explores the history and functions of kain kofo, as well as the designs and their meanings, and discusses future prospects for these rare traditional textiles.

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