Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

DE GESCHIEDENIS VAN DE VOC (The History of the VOC)

Author: Femme S, Gaastra,2002. 192pgs. (Dutch), Hardcover
Publisher: Walburg Pers, Zuthpen, the Netherlands

Femme Gaastra’s volume constitutes the definitive, authoritative standard work on the rise, zenith, and eventual collapse of the world’s first true mega‑corporation. This masterful study systematically traces the trajectory of the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) from its establishment in 1602 to its bankruptcy and dissolution in 1799. Eschewing romanticized depictions of the Dutch Golden Age, Gaastra instead interrogates the VOC as a complex financial, administrative, and maritime system. The book engages with fundamental structural questions: How could a commercial enterprise be endowed with sovereign political and military powers? By what mechanisms did it finance nearly five thousand voyages to Asia? And what compelled thousands of Europeans to enlist in perilous, disease‑ridden maritime careers? Drawing upon an immense corpus of archival records, financial ledgers, and shipping data, Gaastra elucidates the economic mechanics underpinning the trades in spices, silk, and porcelain. Crucially, the text does not evade the brutal realities of early modern capitalism. It documents the company’s reliance on violent blockades, ruthless military campaigns, and monopolistic practices to eliminate both local and European competitors. The scope of analysis extends from ship design and onboard labor conditions to the administrative hierarchy centered in Batavia (present‑day Jakarta). Stylistically, the work leans heavily toward economic history. At times, its dense statistical tables, exhaustive commodity lists, and numerical analysis may overwhelm the casual reader. English‑language audiences have occasionally remarked upon the prose’s clunky or overly literal quality, a consequence of the limited literary refinement in translation from the Dutch original. Nevertheless, the book remains an indispensable and highly informative reference for serious students of colonial history and early modern economics. Its data‑driven approach presupposes a foundational familiarity with the period, making it less suitable as a light introductory narrative but invaluable as a rigorous scholarly resource.

DE INLANDSCHE KUNSTNIJVERHEID IN NEDERLANDSCH INDIE – HET VLECHTWERK. (THE INDIGENOUS ARTS AND CRAFTS IN THE NETHERLANDS EAST INDIES – PLAITING & BASKETRY). First Tome.

Author: J.E. Jasper & Mas Pirngadie, 1912. 240pgs. (Dutch language). Hardcover
Publisher: van het Mouton & Co, Den Haag, Nederland

This monumental first volume of a five-part documentary corpus remains an indispensable, richly illustrated Dutch resource for scholars investigating the traditional material culture of Indonesia. The work effectively bridges early twentieth-century colonial administration with indigenous craft traditions. Jasper undertook extensive travels across the archipelago to document these practices, while Pirngadie contributed detailed sketches and meticulous visual records. The volume offers an encyclopedic survey of Indonesian fiber arts, transforming quotidian utilitarian objects into artifacts of significant artistic and anthropological value. It encompasses virtually every conceivable dimension of three-dimensional fiber manipulation across the Dutch East Indies. The authors delineate how local artisans harvested and processed organic materials such as bamboo, rattan, pandanus leaves, and diverse palms or grasses. They further classify complex geometric weaving structures—including twill, hexagonal, and openwork plaiting—into systematic categories. The study ranges from domestic items such as mats, baskets, and food covers to specialized implements including traps, agricultural winnowing trays, and ceremonial headgear. Pirngadie’s highly detailed line drawings elucidate the precise mechanics of fiber strands crossing over and under to generate distinctive regional motifs. No modern field guide rivals the geographical breadth of this text, which encompasses techniques from Sumatra to Papua. Nevertheless, the book is framed through a colonial lens of oversight. At times, its categorizations impose a Western dichotomy of “primitive utility” versus “fine art,” thereby marginalizing the spiritual dimensions and localized nomenclature embedded within indigenous weaving traditions.

DE INLANDSCHE KUNSTNIJVERHEID IN NEDERLANDSCH-INDIË (Native Arts and Crafts of the Dutch East Indies), Volume 2: De Weefkunst (Weaving)

Author: J.E. Jasper & Mas Pirngadie, 1912, 373pg. (Dutch language).
Publisher: v/h MOUTON & Co., s’Gravenhage, Netherlands

This monumental book series constitutes a comprehensive exploration of Indonesian native arts and crafts. The present volume, the second in the series, is devoted to the intricate art of weaving. The inaugural volume examines the diverse traditions of basketry across the archipelago, while the third volume is dedicated to the art of Batik. The fourth volume investigates the craftsmanship of gold and silver smithing, and the fifth addresses the production of non-precious metal works. In this volume, which has become a reference book, the authors provide a systematic introduction to weaving practices. They begin with an exposition of the raw materials and the preparation of threads, followed by a discussion of natural and synthetic dyes. The text then elaborates on the structuring of warp and weft, the mechanics of the loom, and the sequential stages of the weaving process. Particular attention is given to specialized techniques such as thread-binding (ikat), band creation, and card-weaving. The volume further analyzes motifs and patterns, situating them within broader cultural and aesthetic frameworks, while also documenting additional weaving methodologies employed throughout Indonesia.

DE MOOISTE INDONESISCHE MYTHEN EN SAGEN (The most Beautiful Indonesian Myths and Sagas)

Author: Ella van der Molen, 2002. 286pgs. (Dutch). Softcover
Publisher: Verba, Hoevelaken, the Netherlands

Originally published as a Dutch anthology and later adapted with distinction by Ella van der Molen, this volume offers a compelling exploration of the folklore of the Indonesian archipelago. It consolidates generations of oral traditions, encompassing narratives that range from cosmological accounts of natural phenomena to witty animal fables and mystical epics. The anthology is organized both geographically and thematically, traversing Indonesia’s principal islands—including Java, Sumatra, and Lombok—while balancing expansive cosmic mythologies with intimate everyday tales. The corpus of narratives broadly falls into three categories: Cosmic and natural origins — etiological myths that explain geological features and agricultural staples, such as the sacred arrival of rice in Java, the lunar markings interpreted as “spots on the moon,” and the divine reverence accorded to the banyan tree (waringin). Spiritual and supernatural encounters — high-stakes confrontations with formidable beings, including terrifying sky giants and the mercurial Queen of the Southern Sea, Ratu Kidul (Nyi Loro Kidul), whose enigmatic presence permeates Javanese cosmology. Moral and humorous tales — narratives of ordinary individuals and clever animals, such as the celebrated rooster of Panji Laras, the fortunes of a humble satay vendor, and avian fables recounting how birds elected their king. Rather than presenting Indonesian folklore as a monolithic tradition, the anthology underscores the diversity of regional voices. The transition from Javanese courtly mythologies to Sumatra’s nature-driven parables produces a dynamic and unpredictable reading experience. Van der Molen’s adaptation succeeds in preserving the conversational cadence and rhythmic flow characteristic of oral storytelling. The prose renders complex localized belief systems accessible to a modern European readership, while retaining the mystical aura of distant settings. Yet the human core of these tales—grappling with vanity, greed, loyalty, and love—remains universally resonant, allowing their moral foundations to transcend cultural boundaries. For readers seeking analytical or historical context, the anthology may appear somewhat limited. It omits critical apparatus such as footnotes or essays detailing the provenance and collection of specific mythic variants. As is common in commercially oriented folklore anthologies, certain darker or more complex elements of oral tradition are softened to suit a broader, family-friendly audience. Nevertheless, the work functions as an enchanting portal into Indonesia’s spiritual heritage, striking a delicate balance between whimsical entertainment and cultural preservation. This anthology is highly recommended for those interested in world mythology, Southeast Asian culture, or the enduring art of oral storytelling.

DECORATIVE ARTS OF SUMBA.

Author: Essays by Marie-Jeanne Adams, Jill Forshee, Alit Djajasoebrata, and Linda Hanssen, 1999, 160pg. (English). Softcover
Publisher: The Peppin Press, Amsterdam

The volume provides a profound examination of the distinguished Sumba collection housed within the Rotterdam Museum of Ethnology. Through a series of scholarly essays, readers are guided to appreciate the centrality of life and death in the cultural fabric of Sumba Island, the historical trajectory of weaving traditions in East Sumba across the centuries, and a comprehensive overview of Sumbanese textile artistry. The contributions of expert researchers imbue these handwoven textiles—many of which have never before been exhibited—with new interpretive significance, situating them within broader discourses of material culture and ethnographic study.

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