Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

BATIK PESISIR. An Indonesian Heritage. Collection of Hartono Sumarsono

Author: Helen ishwara, L.R. Supriyapto Yahya, Xenia Moeis, 2012, 266pg. (English). Softcover
Publisher: Kepustakaan Populer Gramedia, Jakarta

The collector presents his extensive assemblage of Pesisir Batiks in a geographically structured manner, commencing with Batik traditions from Pekalongan, Batang, Tegal, Lasem, Kudus, Banyumas, Cirebon, and Indramayu, followed by Garut, Sidoarjo, and Madura. Although not all of these regions are strictly coastal—Garut, for instance, is situated inland—they are nonetheless frequently categorized within the broader cultural sphere of coastal batik production. In addition to showcasing the textiles themselves, the collector imparts a wealth of knowledge concerning batik-related cultural artifacts and practices. These include pangsi trousers (traditional batik pants), baby slings, isen-isen and lataran (filler and background motifs), signed batiks, and hand-painted batik works. His discourse underscores both the material diversity and the symbolic richness embedded within the batik tradition.

BATIK SEBUAH LAKON (BATIK, A PLAY)

Author: Iwan Tirta, 2009, 250pg. (Indonesian). Softcover
Publisher: Gaya Favorit Press, Jakarta

The author conceptualizes batik as a theatrical performance, structuring the book in alignment with the stages of a wayang shadow play. The opening section, Talu (Prologue), recounts his childhood experiences and the origins of his admiration for batik. The narrative then transitions to the creation of batik within the keraton—the royal palaces of Central Java—where tradition and artistry were cultivated. Subsequently, the section Adeg Sebrang explores external influences beyond the palace walls, including contributions from Pekalongan, Chinese, Arab, Dutch, and other cultural interactions. The author reflects on the role of the muse—the spiritual force that inspires Iwan Tirta in his work as both batik artisan and fashion designer. As in many narratives, a challenge emerges: here, the disruption of the Second World War, which gave rise to Batik Hokokai, Batik Indonesia, and other innovative designers. For Iwan, batik ultimately becomes a form of meditation, a contemplative practice that transcends mere craft. The closing section, Tancep Kayon (Epilogue), situates batik within broader trajectories of cultural development, examining its transformation into haute couture and its role in global markets. He further considers batik’s significance in diplomatic relations and speculates on its future evolution. The book is richly illustrated, featuring vivid and meticulously curated images that showcase Iwan Tirta’s batik creations and artistic legacy.

BATIK SIDOMUKTI GAYA SURAKARTA (BATIK SIDOMUKTI, IN THE STYLE OF SURAKARTA)

Author: Veronika Kristianti, 2011, 108pg. (Indonesian) Softcover
Publisher: Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy, Jakarta

The Sidomukti batik motif originates from continuous developments of Sidomukti pattern with a white background, this was later developed by Sunan Paku Buwana IV with isen-isen or fillers on the white background. Much later, Sunan Paku Buwono X changed the Sidomukti motif into eight patterns called Astabrata. The book is based on the author’s thesis.

BATIK SUDAGARAN SURAKARTA. Koleksi Hartono Sumarsono

Author: Hartono Sumarsono et al, 2019. 244pg. (Indonesian)
Publisher: Gramedia Pustaka Utama, Jakarata

The strict regulations surrounding court batik and the exclusive batik larangan motifs designated for the sultan and his family have undoubtedly inspired a vibrant freedom of expression outside the palace. This collection prominently showcases batiks created by artisans using motifs derived from everyday life, effectively attracting a broader clientele through commissioned works and sales by traders known as sudagar. These batiks are referred to as Batik Sudagaran.

BATIK TIGA NEGERI MAHAKARYA WARNA DAN MAKNA. (BATIK TIGA NEGERI. MASTERPIECES OF COLOR AND MEANING). The Komarudin Kudiya and Afif Syakur Collections.

Author: Komarudin Kudiya & Afif Syakur (2025), 242 pgs. (Indonesian). Hardcover
Publisher: ITB Press, Bandung

The Batik Tiga Negeri (Three-Regions Batik) represents a distinctive and highly esteemed tradition of batik artistry that originated in three culturally significant regions of Central Java. Its aesthetic and symbolic resonance derives from the harmonious integration of three principal colors, each imbued with profound cultural meaning. The red dye, produced in Lasem, symbolizes vitality, courage, and unity. The blue, derived from Indigofera tinctoria in Pekalongan, evokes serenity, intellectual depth, and spiritual contemplation. The brown, extracted from soga and tinggi bark in Yogyakarta, embodies refinement, stability, and moral elegance. Together, these hues form a chromatic triad that encapsulates the philosophical ideals of balance, harmony, and interconnectedness. The inception of Batik Tiga Negeri is attributed to the Tjoa family in Surakarta, whose pioneering craftsmanship established this genre as a cultural emblem. Within Javanese tradition, each sheet of batik is believed to carry a blessing, functioning not merely as a textile but as a vessel of spiritual energy. Prior to employing the canting pen, the batik artisan often utters a prayer or invocation, seeking prosperity, protection, and divine favor. This ritual underscores the intimate relationship between artistic practice and spiritual devotion, situating batik as both a material artifact and a medium of transcendence. Beyond its visual allure, Batik Tiga Negeri embodies the Javanese worldview in which art, ritual, and philosophy converge, reinforcing communal identity while simultaneously offering individual expressions of faith and aspiration. In this way, Batik Tiga Negeri transcends its utilitarian function, becoming a profound articulation of cultural continuity and spiritual meaning.

Page 13 of 89