Author: Michael Hitchcock, 1991, 191pgs. (English). Softcover
Publisher: Periplus Editions, Singapore
This volume constitutes a comprehensive illustrated guide and scholarly survey of both traditional and contemporary Indonesian textile design. The author systematically examines the diverse raw materials employed in textile production, the construction and operation of traditional looms, and the intricate artistry of ikat, batik, and other resist-dyeing techniques. In addition, the text explores decorative weaving practices, embroidery, and related embellishment methods that have evolved across the archipelago. Beyond technical processes, the work situates textiles within their broader cultural and social contexts. It investigates the role of cloth in ceremonial life, everyday dress, and aesthetic expression, while also analyzing the interplay of design, symbolism, and color. By integrating ethnographic insight with visual documentation, the guide underscores the enduring significance of textiles as both utilitarian objects and vehicles of cultural identity in Indonesia.
Author: Itie van Hout, 2017. 231pg. (English)
Publisher: LM Publisher, Volendam, Netherlands
Over 160 years, the Tropenmuseum collected around 20,000 traditional textiles, including 12,000 Indonesian textiles and weaving tools. This study explores the collection's origins and the stories of its makers, users, and the Dutch collectors who brought them to the Netherlands. While most textiles come from the archipelago, a small portion was created in the Netherlands for artistic or commercial reasons.
Author: Mattiebelle Gittinger (editor), 1979. 440pg. (English). Photocopied version.
Publisher: The Textile Museum, Washingtion DC, USA
Papers in the Conference Proceedings: James J. Fox. (Figure Shark and Pattern Crocodile. The Foundations of the textile traditions of Roti and Ndao.) Suwati Kartiwa. (The Social Functions of the Kain. Songket Minangkabau.) Hetty Nooy-Palm. (The role of sacred cloths in the mythology and ritual of the Saadan-Toraja.) Susan Rodgers-Siregar. (Blessing Shawls: The social meaning of the Sipirok Batak Ulos.) Cornelia Vogelsanger. (Sight for the Gods. Social & religious meaning of Iban … cloths.) John Maxwell. T(extiles of the Kapuas Basin, with reference to Maloh beadwork.) Robyn J. Maxwell. (Textile and ethnic configurations in Flores and the Alor archipelago.) Robert J. Holmgren & Anita Spertus. (Tampan Pasisir: Pictorial documents ……) Alit Veldhuizen Djajasoebrata. (Larangan: forbidden Batik patterns from Central Javanese Courts) K.R.T Hardjanagoro. (Batik in the history and Philosophy of Javanese textiles.) Mary Hunt Kahlenberg. (Influence of the European herbal on Indonesian Batik.) Garrett and Bronwen Solyom. (Cosmic Symbolism in Semen and Alas-alasan patterns….) Olga Yogi. (Lurik, a traditional textile in Central Java.) Rita Bolland. (Twill weaving by the Angkola Batak, people of North Sumatra.) Rita Bolland. (Advise to advisors.) Nobuko Kajitani. (Traditional Dyes in Indonesia.) Angela Lakwet. (Identification and Preservation of Dyes.) Joseph Fisher. (The character and study of Indonesian textiles.) Peggy S, Gilfoy. (Textiles in Africa and Indonesia. A Connection?) Mary Elizabeth King. (Possible Indonesian or Southeast Asian influence in New World Textile Industries.)
Author: Benny Gratha, 2020. 199pg. (Indonesian)
Publisher: Buana Alit Wastra Mahakarya, Denpasar Bali
This book is the first to explore the influence of Islam on batik in Indonesia. It accompanies an exhibition at the Jakarta Textile Museum that shares the same title. The motifs featured on the cloth are categorized into calligraphic designs, geometric patterns, undefined shapes, parts of animals, or combinations of two or more animals. This is a bold effort to document these batiks and is a valuable addition to the collection of Indonesian textile literature.
Author: editor unknown, 1999, photocopied version
Publisher: Museum Nasional Indonesia
The proceedings includes the following papers: Dale Gluckman. (Keeping Culture: Museums and Traditional Asian Textiles) Jasleen Dhamija. (Traditional Textiles and Changing Perceptions.) Robyn Maxwell. (Textile and Politics in the Indonesian Archipelago in the 20th century) Kim Jane Saunders. (Textile for Tourists or Textiles for Heritage?) Mary Hunt Kahlenberg. (Nine Lives of a Textile.) John Summerfield. (Then and Now. Ceremonial Textiles 1800-1999) Wahyono Martowikrido. (On the Men’s Cloth of Ayutopas, South Central Timor.) Thomas Murray. (Textile Motifs in Indian Trade Cloth, made to the South Sumatra Taste.) Kun Lestari WF. (The Development of Traditional Javanese Batik Colors with natural dyes.) Sulaeman et al. (Traditional Dyeing method of soga color using natural dyes.) Djumala Mahmud. (Wood as main material of batik stamp in the batik process.) Trihusodo. (Use of national raw materials for the Batik industries.) Hendri Suprapto. (Natural Dyeing on Cotton, Silk, and Wool. Elizabeth Oley. (Natural Dye revival in Indonesia.) Liz Perry. (Weaving and Dyeing in Cambodia.) Xayprany Chantalangsy. (Lao Textiles at the World Textile Fashion and Art.) Dwi Suheryanto. (Intelectual Property Rights in the field of Batik Indonesia.) Puji Yoseph Subagyo. (North Coast Java Batik 1994.) Kay Krippen. (Marketing Naturally Dyed Traditional textiles.) Joseph Fisher. (Balinese and Embroideries.) Suhardini Khalid. (The Ulos Weaver in the Life of the Toba Batak.) Suwati Kartiwa. (Appreciation for Traditional Textiles, Revitalization and Development.) Toeti Kakiailatu. (Market segmentation in Traditional textiles.) Moh. Najib bin Ahmad Dawa. (Malaysian batik sarong and its symbolism.) Geneviève Duggan. (Woven metaphors and Gender symbolism in Savunese Textiles.) S. Hertini Adiwoso. (The sacred weavings of the “Wetu Telu” in East Lombok.) Puspitasari Wibisono. (Baduy community and its handwoven cloth.) Fiona Kerlogue. (Transformation and Tradition: Calligraphy Batik from Jambi.) Itie van Hout. (Indonesian weaving between heaven and earth. Bird motifs on Indonesian Textiles.) Anne Summerfield. (The ‘Way’ of motifs in Minangkabau Ceremonial textiles.) Woro Aryandini. (The Meaning of Pattern in Javanese Traditional Batik.) T.T. Soerjanto. (Nitik motifs in Javanese Batik.)
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