Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

AJARAN KEPEMIMPINAN ASTHABRATA (ASTHABRATA – LEADERSHIP TEACHINGS)

Author: K.G.P.A.A. Paku Alam X, 2017 (second edition), 100pgs., (Indonesian & English), softcover
Publisher: Perpustakaan Puro Pakualaman, Yogyakarta

Through the extensive collection of heirlooms preserved at Puro Pakualaman, one may discern its pivotal role in Indonesian history and its contributions to the evolution of civilization in both Indonesia and the Special Region of Yogyakarta. The distinctive status of Puro Pakualaman as one of the four autonomous polities within the Praja Dalam Mataram (Islamic Mataram Governance—alongside Kasunanan Surakarta, Kadipaten Mangkunegaran, and Kasultanan Ngayogyakarta—compelled its rulers to articulate an idealized model of leadership that could serve as the foundation for governance. This volume examines the Javanese conception of leadership as embodied by the deities entrusted with safeguarding the cosmos: Batara Indra, Batara Yama, Batara Surya, Batara Candra, Batara Bayu, Batara Wishnu, Batara Brama, and Batara Baruna. These divine figures symbolized the noble principles of rulership historically manifested by Javanese kings within the Praja Dalam Mataram. Central to this discourse is the doctrine of Astabrata, rooted in the Kakawin Ramayana, wherein Rama imparts to his brother Barata the essential virtues of leadership. The transmission of these values through archetypal divine characters proved effective, as audiences could internalize them prior to engaging with literary texts or experiencing their dramatization in wayang kulit performances. Consequently, the rulers of Pakualaman undertook the initiative to compose literary works on leadership, thereby codifying and perpetuating these ideals.

ALL ABOUT BATIK: Art of Tradition and Harmony

Author: contributions by Masakatsu Tozu, Sae Ogasawara, Panembahan Hardjonagoro, Museum Ulen Sentalu, Yogyakarta, Nian S. Djoemena & Afif Syakur, 2007. 229pgs. (Japanese & Indonesian). Softcover
Publisher: Asahi Shimbun, Japan

This commemorative volume was published to mark the fiftieth anniversary of diplomatic relations between Japan and Indonesia. The accompanying exhibition, hosted at the Embassy of Indonesia in Tokyo, featured an exceptional collection of batiks curated from the holdings of Professor Masakatsu Tozu of Kokushikan University, Japan. The publication is enriched by messages of endorsement and reflection from distinguished figures, including His Excellency Ambassador Dr. Jusuf Anwar; Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X, the reigning Sultan of Yogyakarta Hadiningrat; Yultin Ginanjar Kartasasmita of the Batik Foundation; and Dyah Damayanti of the Jakarta Textile Museum. Scholarly contributions within the volume were authored by recognized authorities in the field of batik studies, each offering insights grounded in their expertise. Collectively, these writings underscore the cultural significance of batik as both an artistic tradition and a medium of intercultural dialogue, situating the textile not merely as a craft but as a profound symbol of heritage and diplomacy.

ANN DUNHAM’S LEGACY. A Collection of Indonesian Batik

Author: Hebal Nayel Barakat Adline Abdul Gani, Ros Mahwati Ahmad Zakaria, 2012. 110pgs, (English), Hardcover
Publisher: Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur

This volume is a nice coffee-table book to honor the life of Ann Dunham, the mother of the 55th President of the United States, Barack Obama . She lived in Indonesia from 1967 for more than 14 years with her second husband, Lolo Soetoro The book presents her batiks that she collected when doing fieldwork on Java while studying the village industries of Java. The exhibition was held in 2012 at the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia, in Kuala Lumpur.

ANTAKESUMA SUJI DALAM ADAT MINANGKABAU. (ANTAKESUMA EMBROIDERY OF MINANGKABAU)

Author: Sativa Sutan Anwar, 1999, 115pg. (Indonesian & English). Softcover
Publisher: Djambatan, Jakarta

The author has elected to examine a distinctive cultural practice originating from an ethnic community markedly different from the broader Indonesian heritage: the Minangkabau tradition of hand embroidery. One of the defining features that renders Minangkabau embroidery particularly remarkable is the diversity of its needlework patterns. This artistic form represents a synthesis of multiple cultural influences, shaped historically by the influx of merchants who frequented the region’s ports. The embroidery techniques were significantly influenced by Chinese traditions, a connection evident in the tools employed, the stylistic approaches to embroidery, and the chromatic choices. Such influences are most clearly manifested in techniques such as suji cair (satin stitch), suji kepala peniti (French knot), and suji batakaik (raised embroidery). These forms of embroidery have been practiced since the early eighteenth century, reflecting cultural exchanges that trace back to the period spanning the Shang through the Han dynasties.

ART DECO TEXTILES. The French Designers.

Author: Alain René Hardy, 2003. 256pgs. (English). Softcover.
Publisher: Thames and Hudson, London

A visually compelling exploration of French Art Deco textile design. The decorative arts were revitalized by the Paris International Exhibition of 1925, which inaugurated a flourishing era that profoundly influenced the cultural and domestic aesthetics of an entire generation. Alternately opulent or restrained, these textiles range from exuberant floral motifs to austere geometric compositions, oscillating between classical timelessness and the celebration of modern innovation. This curated presentation of fabric artistry offers a wealth of inspiration for those seeking to understand the pivotal role of textiles in defining the avant-garde spirit at the forefront of Art Deco style.

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