Author: Mattiebelle Gittinger (editor), 1979. 440pg. (English). Photocopied version.
Publisher: The Textile Museum, Washingtion DC, USA
Papers in the Conference Proceedings: James J. Fox. (Figure Shark and Pattern Crocodile. The Foundations of the textile traditions of Roti and Ndao.) Suwati Kartiwa. (The Social Functions of the Kain. Songket Minangkabau.) Hetty Nooy-Palm. (The role of sacred cloths in the mythology and ritual of the Saadan-Toraja.) Susan Rodgers-Siregar. (Blessing Shawls: The social meaning of the Sipirok Batak Ulos.) Cornelia Vogelsanger. (Sight for the Gods. Social & religious meaning of Iban … cloths.) John Maxwell. T(extiles of the Kapuas Basin, with reference to Maloh beadwork.) Robyn J. Maxwell. (Textile and ethnic configurations in Flores and the Alor archipelago.) Robert J. Holmgren & Anita Spertus. (Tampan Pasisir: Pictorial documents ……) Alit Veldhuizen Djajasoebrata. (Larangan: forbidden Batik patterns from Central Javanese Courts) K.R.T Hardjanagoro. (Batik in the history and Philosophy of Javanese textiles.) Mary Hunt Kahlenberg. (Influence of the European herbal on Indonesian Batik.) Garrett and Bronwen Solyom. (Cosmic Symbolism in Semen and Alas-alasan patterns….) Olga Yogi. (Lurik, a traditional textile in Central Java.) Rita Bolland. (Twill weaving by the Angkola Batak, people of North Sumatra.) Rita Bolland. (Advise to advisors.) Nobuko Kajitani. (Traditional Dyes in Indonesia.) Angela Lakwet. (Identification and Preservation of Dyes.) Joseph Fisher. (The character and study of Indonesian textiles.) Peggy S, Gilfoy. (Textiles in Africa and Indonesia. A Connection?) Mary Elizabeth King. (Possible Indonesian or Southeast Asian influence in New World Textile Industries.)
Author: Gisela Volger & Karin V. Welck, 1991, 293pg. (English). Hardcover
Publisher: Ethnologica, Cologne, Germany
Thiese proceedings are a collection of papers presented at a textile symposium held from September 27 to 30, 1985 entitled “Indonesien Textillien: Wege zu Gӧttern und Ahnen” in Cologne, Germany. The textiles come from the Indonesian Textile collection of the North-Rhein Westfalia Museum.. A supplement by Brigitte Khan Majlis accompanies this volume presenting new textile additions in Krefeld and Cologne. Topic 1: Textiles as Trade Objects and Sacred Cloth Problems of Iconography, Stilistic Connections, Import and Export of Influences Ruth Barnes (Patola in Southern Lembata) Toos van Dijk & Nico de Jonge (Bastas in Babar: Imported Asian Textiles in a South-east Moluccan Culture Danielle Geirnaert -Martin (The Snake’s Skin: Traditional Ikat in Kodi?) Mattiebelle Gittinger (A Comparison od Sumatran Tampan and Certain Tai Textiles) Rens Heringa (Textiles and the Social Fabric on Northeast Java) Rens Heringa (Kapas Lowo – Brown Cotton) Robert Holmgren and Anita E Spertus (Is Geringsing really Balinese?) Peggy R. Sanday & Suwati Kartiwa (Value In and Of Minangkabau Songket) Christiane Kron-Steinhardt (Textile Influences between Mindanao (Southern Philippines) and some Indonesian Islands) Robyn J. Maxwell (The Tree of Life in Indonesian Textiles: Ancient Iconography or Imported Chinoiserie?) Marie-Louise Nabholz Kartaschoff (Preliminary Approach to Cepuk Cloths from South Bali and Nusa Penida) Sandra Niessen (A Tale that 1001 Batak Textiles tell about twelve European Museums: A Collection History) Irs Ramseyer ( Clothing, Ritual and Society in Tenganan Pegeringsingan) Alit Veldhuisen-Djajasoebrata (The Bangun Tulak from Central Java: A Blue and White Cloth as an Impediment against Evil) Chantal Vuldy (Pekalongan as a Center of Batik Trade) Shinobu Yoshimoto ( Sacred Cloth among the Sasaks) Topic 2: Can Neighbouring Fields Contribute to Textile Research? Rita Bolland (You need a Loom to Produce a Textile) Brigitta Hauser-Schäublin (Textiles as the Probable Source of Home Decorations among the Sa’dan Toraja) Irene Hilgers-Hesse (Textiles in Early Malayan-Indonesian Literature) Michael Hitcock (Textiles, Houses and the Biman Division of Labour) Topic 3: Indonesian Textiles in European Collections Heide Leigh Theisen (Indonesian Textiles in the Museum fur Volkerkunde, Viennia) A. Claerhout (Survey of Belgian Museum Textile Collections) Gerd Hopfner (Some Statistical Remarks to the Collection of Indonesian Textiles in the Department of South Asia, Museum furt Volkerkunde Berlin) Christian Pelras (Indonesian Textiles at the Musée de l’Homme in Paris) Michael J. Hitchcock (Indonesian Textiles inMuseums in Britain) Rita Bolland (Dutch Museums and Indonesian Textile Collections) Elisabet Lind (The Indoneisian Textile Collection at the EthnographicalMuseum of Sweden in Stockholm) Marie-Louise Nabholz Kartaschoff (Indoneisan Textiles in Swiss Museum Collections) Supplement: Brigitte Khan Majlis (Recent Contributions to the Indonesian Textile Collection at the German Textile Museum in Krefeld and at the Rautenstrauch-Joest Museum, Cologne)
Author: A.N.J.Th. Van der Hoop, 1949. 323pgs. (Dutch, Indonesian, English). Hardcover
Publisher: Koninklijk Bataviaasch Genootschap van Kunsten en Wetenschappen, Jakarta
This volume constitutes a seminal reference in the documentation of traditional Indonesian visual art. It offers a systematic categorization of motifs, accompanied by multilingual commentary and meticulously rendered visual plates. The classificatory scheme encompasses geometric forms, floral, faunal, and cosmic symbols, thereby situating artistic expression within a broader semiotic framework. Regional variations are carefully delineated, with comparative attention to Java, Bali, Sumatra, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, and Papua, underscoring the diversity of Indonesia’s cultural landscape. The analysis extends across multiple media—woodcarving, textiles, metalwork, and architectural ornamentation—demonstrating the pervasive integration of visual motifs into both quotidian and ceremonial contexts. As a visual inventory, the book is invaluable: its precise line drawings and black-and-white photographs preserve historical designs that were often tied to ritual practice, social hierarchy, and markers of identity. In this sense, the work functions not merely as an art historical catalogue but as an ethnographic archive safeguarding intangible heritage. At the same time, the interpretive frameworks and ethnographic descriptions reflect the intellectual climate of the mid-twentieth century, shaped by colonial and early post-independence scholarship. Certain analytical segments thus appear dated, particularly in their reliance on typological classification and their limited engagement with indigenous epistemologies. Nevertheless, the volume remains a foundational resource, offering scholars a critical point of departure for re-evaluating Indonesian visual traditions through contemporary lenses of cultural anthropology, art history, and heritage studies.
Author: Benny Gratha, 2020. 199pg. (Indonesian)
Publisher: Buana Alit Wastra Mahakarya, Denpasar Bali
This book is the first to explore the influence of Islam on batik in Indonesia. It accompanies an exhibition at the Jakarta Textile Museum that shares the same title. The motifs featured on the cloth are categorized into calligraphic designs, geometric patterns, undefined shapes, parts of animals, or combinations of two or more animals. This is a bold effort to document these batiks and is a valuable addition to the collection of Indonesian textile literature.
Author: editor unknown, 1999, photocopied version
Publisher: Museum Nasional Indonesia
The proceedings includes the following papers: Dale Gluckman. (Keeping Culture: Museums and Traditional Asian Textiles) Jasleen Dhamija. (Traditional Textiles and Changing Perceptions.) Robyn Maxwell. (Textile and Politics in the Indonesian Archipelago in the 20th century) Kim Jane Saunders. (Textile for Tourists or Textiles for Heritage?) Mary Hunt Kahlenberg. (Nine Lives of a Textile.) John Summerfield. (Then and Now. Ceremonial Textiles 1800-1999) Wahyono Martowikrido. (On the Men’s Cloth of Ayutopas, South Central Timor.) Thomas Murray. (Textile Motifs in Indian Trade Cloth, made to the South Sumatra Taste.) Kun Lestari WF. (The Development of Traditional Javanese Batik Colors with natural dyes.) Sulaeman et al. (Traditional Dyeing method of soga color using natural dyes.) Djumala Mahmud. (Wood as main material of batik stamp in the batik process.) Trihusodo. (Use of national raw materials for the Batik industries.) Hendri Suprapto. (Natural Dyeing on Cotton, Silk, and Wool. Elizabeth Oley. (Natural Dye revival in Indonesia.) Liz Perry. (Weaving and Dyeing in Cambodia.) Xayprany Chantalangsy. (Lao Textiles at the World Textile Fashion and Art.) Dwi Suheryanto. (Intelectual Property Rights in the field of Batik Indonesia.) Puji Yoseph Subagyo. (North Coast Java Batik 1994.) Kay Krippen. (Marketing Naturally Dyed Traditional textiles.) Joseph Fisher. (Balinese and Embroideries.) Suhardini Khalid. (The Ulos Weaver in the Life of the Toba Batak.) Suwati Kartiwa. (Appreciation for Traditional Textiles, Revitalization and Development.) Toeti Kakiailatu. (Market segmentation in Traditional textiles.) Moh. Najib bin Ahmad Dawa. (Malaysian batik sarong and its symbolism.) Geneviève Duggan. (Woven metaphors and Gender symbolism in Savunese Textiles.) S. Hertini Adiwoso. (The sacred weavings of the “Wetu Telu” in East Lombok.) Puspitasari Wibisono. (Baduy community and its handwoven cloth.) Fiona Kerlogue. (Transformation and Tradition: Calligraphy Batik from Jambi.) Itie van Hout. (Indonesian weaving between heaven and earth. Bird motifs on Indonesian Textiles.) Anne Summerfield. (The ‘Way’ of motifs in Minangkabau Ceremonial textiles.) Woro Aryandini. (The Meaning of Pattern in Javanese Traditional Batik.) T.T. Soerjanto. (Nitik motifs in Javanese Batik.)
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