Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

LURIK. Garis-garis Bertuah (LURIK, the Magic Stripes)

Author: Nian S. Djoemena. 2000. 158pg. (Indonesian & English). Hardcover
Publisher: Djambatan, Jakarta

The book examines the traditional textile known as Lurik, a fabric distinguished by its apparent simplicity in both aesthetic form and weaving technique, yet imbued with profound cultural and symbolic significance. The author elucidates the sacred dimensions of Lurik, highlighting its associations with magical potency, spiritual protection, and aspirational meaning encoded within the nomenclature of its diverse patterns. Furthermore, she delineates the distinctions between Lurik produced in Yogyakarta and Surakarta, while also situating the variations originating from Tuban on Java’s northern coast within a broader regional framework. The discussion extends to textiles that share affinities with Lurik, thereby situating the cloth within a comparative tradition of weaving practices. Notably, the book was composed during a period devoid of published references or digital resources, a circumstance that rendered the author’s scholarly endeavor particularly arduous and underscored the originality of her contribution.

LURIK. Suatu Pengantar. (LURIK, an introduction) - Catalog

Author: S.J.H. Damais 1981, 36pg. (Indonesian). Softcover.
Publisher: Himpunan Wastraprema, Jakarta

The exhibition was held from 26 February to 26 March 1981 at the Jakarta Textile Museum. Lurik, a traditional Indonesian textile originating from Java, is distinguished by its austere linear stripe patterns. Historically, lurik has been associated with modesty and humility, serving as attire for the working class. In contemporary contexts, however, it has been reimagined and incorporated into high fashion as well as diverse modern applications. Certain motifs are believed to embody symbolic significance, functioning in ritual offerings or as emblems of protection, guidance, and good fortune.

LURIK: GARIS-GARIS BERTUAH. Koleksi Sumbangan ibu Nian S. Djoemena – Catalog (Lurik: Auspicious Stripes. Collection gifted by Nian S. Djoemena)

Author: Judi Achjadi & Benny Gratha, 2016. 44pg. (English & Indonesian)
Publisher: Musium Tekstil Jakarta

The Catalog showcases a remarkable collection of Lurik, the distinctive striped cloth from Java, generously donated by the family of the late Nian S. Djoemena, an esteemed authority on Indonesian textiles. It provides essential insights into decorating techniques, including the strategic use of alternating colours and white dotted patterns, while also emphasizing the significant role of Lurik in rituals and ceremonies.

MAE JAEM: Discontinuous Supplementary-Weft Patterned Textiles

Author: Phoi Tong Sombat, 2013. 124 pg. (Thai language)
Publisher: Unknown

Mae Jaem stands as a prominent center for Tai woven cotton textiles, especially the famed "pha teen jok," produced in Chiang Mai Province. This booklet is published to mark the significant opening agenda of the continuation of Paya Muang Jam at Muang Dek Wittaya School in Mae Jam District, Chiang Mai Province, Thailand.

MAKNA DAN PEMAKAIAN KAIN BEBALI DALAM UPACARA HINDU DI BALI (MEANING AND USE OF KAIN BEBALI IN HINDU-BALI RITUALS)

Author: Ida Ayu Ngurah Puniari, 2003, 51pg. (Indonesian). Photocopied Version.
Publisher: Dinas Pendidikan Kabupaten Karangasem, Bali

Ida Ayu Ngurah Puniari, born into the highest Brahmin caste, serves as a high school teacher in Sidemen, Karangasem, Bali. She authored her book as a pedagogical endeavor to educate readers about kain bebali, a sacred textile integral to the ritual practices of Panca Yadnya—the five ceremonial offerings in Hindu tradition. These encompass rites dedicated to the deities (Dewa Yadnya), humanity (Manusa Yadnya), ancestors (Pitra Yadnya), the appeasement of malevolent forces (Bhuta Yadnya), and consecrations for holy individuals (Rsi Yadnya). The bebali cloth assumes a multifaceted role within these rituals: adorning temple pillars, embellishing offerings, and serving as a ceremonial garment in pivotal life-cycle events. It is employed in rites for newborns, the three-month infant ceremony, matrimonial unions, and funerary observances, thereby symbolizing continuity between the sacred and the quotidian dimensions of Balinese Hindu life.

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