Library

National and International Publications on SEA Textiles

NINI TOWOK’S SPINNING WHEEL. Cloth and the Cycle of Life in Kerek, Java.

Author: Rens Heringa, 2010, 92pg. (English). Softcover
Publisher: Fowler Museum at UCLA, California, USA

Nini Towok, the venerable grandmother figure with sunken eyes, is envisioned as transmitting her handspun cotton yarn to the earthly realm in the ethereal form of moonbeams. This luminous thread constitutes the foundational raw material of Kerek’s intricate textile system, a cultural matrix imbued with layered symbolic meanings. The spinning wheel of Nini Towok transcends its utilitarian function as a weaver’s instrument; it emerges as a profound metaphor for the cyclical nature of existence itself. Within Javanese cosmology, Nini Towok is perceived as the celestial agent who initiates this perpetual rotation, her presence discernible upon the moon’s surface as it traverses the darkened sky above Java. Thus, the act of spinning is not merely a craft but a cosmological gesture, binding together material production, mythic imagination, and the rhythm of life’s eternal recurrence.

NOBLE VIRTUOSITY: Hidden Asymmetry in Ikat Textiles from Sumba

Author: Peter ten Hoopen, 2024, 233pg. (English). Hardcover
Publisher: University of Hongkong, Museum and Art Gallery, Hongkong

This volume presents an examination into the surprising asymmetry hidden in the work of Sumbanese weavers. In his study, ten Hoopen reveals levels of virtuosity that remained overlooked for over a century of Indonesian textile research. The richly decorated men’s wraps, hinggi from the author’s own collection and of the Hongkong University Museum, have commonly been described as symmetric along both axes. Sumba’s noble weavers managed to create asymmetry by hiding tiny visual elements that disrupted symmetry and were made to be overlooked. For a deeper understanding, interested readers and researchers are encouraged to do further research into the matter.

NUSA BATIK SILANG BUDAYA: Antara Pesisiran dan Keratonan (Island of Batik, Crossings of Cultures: Between Coastal and Court Batik) – Catalog

Author: Quorina Ginting, 2014. 16pg. (Indonesian)
Publisher: Ginting & Reksodiputro, Jakarta

The catalog showcases masterpieces of the Islands, among others are Batik pieces, from Gusti Putri Mangkunegara, Go Tik Swan Panembahan Hardjonagoro, Iwan Tirta and Oey Soe Tjoen.

NYONYA KEBAYA. Intricacies of the Peranakan Heritage.

Author: Christine Ong Kiat Neo, 2011, 208pg. (English). Softcover.
Publisher: Peranakan Museum, Singapore

Readers will encounter a concise historical overview that situates the kebaya within its Peranakan lineage, alongside explorations of batik sarong and embroidery traditions that exemplify the artistry of textile craftsmanship. Practical sections on styling and coordination offer guidance for harmonizing the ensemble in contemporary contexts, while the Myriad Collection showcases the diversity of kebaya designs across generations. Beyond aesthetics, the handbook underscores the kebaya’s role as an everlasting fashion icon, a garment that transcends temporal boundaries and continues to inspire admiration. It also provides thoughtful recommendations on garment care, ensuring that this treasured attire may be preserved for future generations.

O K W I, ALTAR LELUHUR (TOKWI, ANCESTRAL ALTAR CLOTHS)

Author: Indriwati Gondowinoto, 2024. 148pgs. (Indonesian) Hardcover
Publisher: PT Quantum Media Aksara, Yogyakarta

This book documents the manifestation of devotion and filial piety through prayers offered before the ancestral altar. It highlights how ancestral worship, once a cornerstone of communal identity, has in contemporary times diminished in prevalence, reflecting broader cultural transformations. Nevertheless, the practice remains a profound expression of respect and spiritual connection to one’s lineage. Historically, Tokwi originated in China and were traditionally made of silk, a material associated with prestige and ritual purity. With the migration of Chinese communities to Indonesia, Tokwi underwent processes of cultural adaptation, eventually evolving into Tokwi Batik. This transformation represents a syncretic fusion of Chinese ritual symbolism with Indonesian batik artistry. The resulting textile is not merely decorative but functions as a medium of religious devotion, embodying prayers and reverence for ancestors. In this way, Tokwi Batik exemplifies how material culture can serve as a vessel for spiritual continuity, cultural hybridity, and the preservation of ancestral memory.

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